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SNOWING IN BALI

I think I’d be bad, too nervous, I’ve seen the consequences . . .

Yeah, you know the consequences; you’ve been to the jail. Most of the horses, they don’t know what they are doing. They don’t know the consequences, they’re stupid. That’s why we call horse mule, burro – donkey, idiot. Anybody who is not very clever is burro, donkey, in English.

– Rafael

BALI ‘THE LAST PARADISE’ NOW A HEAVEN FOR DRUGGIES?

The evidence that Bali has become a hub of drug activity is found in Kerobokan prison, where an increasing number of locals and foreigners are serving time for drug offences. As of September, there were 80 foreigners in Kerobokan, most of them there because of narcotics.

– Jakarta Post, 16 September 1999

There was an endless stream of people flying in to Bali carrying drugs; horses organised by the cartel players, as well as people independently lobbing with a bag of drugs, sometimes with Rafael or Alberto’s details. Those without any contacts were taking a bigger gamble, but most would ask around in the surf, at the beach, or at nightclubs for a name. People would often say, ‘Call Rafael, he’s the man,’ and pass on his number, taking a cut for the effort. Few runners were getting busted, even those with unbelievably bad packing. People got through with kilos in their backpack, simply cutting the lining and super-gluing it back, or in their suitcase loosely packed among their clothes, rolled up in sleeping bags, or smaller amounts in their undies, pockets, shoes and up their backsides.

People wanting to carry stuff constantly approached Rafael. ‘Fuck off, what are you talking about?’ was often his retort, worried about his name becoming too hot. But sometimes, if they were a

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